The menu at this Thai restaurant is voluminous and modeled after a broadsheet, and the first-time diner would do well to heed the hyperefficient server’s advice. That’s how we happily ended up with dishes he claimed couldn’t be found at cookie-cutter pad Thai parlors: the daikon cake, for starters, sautéed with soy sauce, bean sprouts, and egg; and the tart minced salmon, flavored with chile, mint, lemongrass, and galanga, and served with lettuce leaves for wrapping. This may not be the unabashedly sour, tart, electrifyingly spicy stuff Thai-food fiends’ dreams are made of. But for upper Manhattan, it’s a great option, made even greater by the breezy open-air façade.